All expedition files
An archive photo of the El Progreso mill buildings and railway on San Cristóbal
Grows coffee · Americas & Caribbean

Ecuador and the Galápagos

Coffee grown at 300 metres on a volcanic island, first planted on a plantation worked by exiles.

The El Progreso estate mill, San Cristóbal, about 1900. Photo: Unknown photographer / Wikimedia Commons (Public domain)

0.9°S 89.5°W

Coffee came to mainland Ecuador in 1860, in the Jipijapa zone of Manabí. The country grows both arabica and robusta.

On San Cristóbal in the Galápagos, Manuel J. Cobos ran Hacienda El Progreso from 1878 to 1904. It grew sugar, cattle, coffee and other crops. Its roughly 400 workers were largely exiled criminals, debtors and indentured servants, paid in rubber tokens that kept them in debt. They killed Cobos in 1904.

The coffee was abandoned for nearly a century but some plants survived in the wild. In 1990 the González-Duche family began restoring the old trees.

Galápagos coffee grows at only 200–300 metres. The cold Humboldt Current and the garúa mist make the climate behave like a mainland farm at about 1,200 metres. Only San Cristóbal and Santa Cruz are open to farming, and all coffee must be organic.

Lost arts

What time is taking away

Revived

Feral Bourbon of El Progreso

Bourbon coffee planted on Cobos's San Cristóbal estate went wild after his death in 1904. Since 1990 a local family has been restoring the old trees, some said to be over 140 years old and still bearing fruit.3

Field notes

What the record says

  • Coffee was introduced to mainland Ecuador in 1860 in the Jipijapa zone of Manabí Province.1
  • Manuel J. Cobos ran Hacienda El Progreso on San Cristóbal from 1878 to 1904.4
  • At its height El Progreso covered more than 7,400 acres, with about 1,200 acres in coffee, maize, fruit and other crops.5
  • El Progreso's workforce grew to about 400 by 1900. Most were exiled criminals, debtors, indentured servants and poor immigrants, paid in rubber tokens only good at company shops.5
  • Cobos was killed by his own workers in 1904, and the plantation declined.5
  • Galápagos coffee grows at 200–300 m, yet the Humboldt Current gives it a climate like 1,200–1,300 m on the mainland.2
  • The Galápagos has two coffee harvests a year, in February–March and November–December.2
  • Only San Cristóbal and Santa Cruz are authorised for farming, and environmental rules require all Galápagos coffee to be organic.3
What we couldn't confirm

Sources disagree on when coffee was first planted on San Cristóbal (1869, about 1875, 1879 or about 1880), so no date is given in the story. The '140-year-old trees' claim comes from a business magazine and is marked 'said to be'. Mainland Ecuador is thinly covered (one Wikipedia source).