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A historic red-brick building on Melitta-Bentz-Straße in Dresden
Coffee culture · Europe & Global History

Germany

A Dresden housewife's paper filter, cake at four, and a king's army of coffee sniffers.

Melitta-Bentz-Straße, Dresden, named for the paper filter's inventor. Photo: Paulae / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

51.0°N 13.7°E

In 1908 Melitta Bentz of Dresden tore blotting paper from her son's notebook, put it in a brass pot pierced with holes, and poured water over the coffee. That year she received a patent and founded a company in her own name.

Frederick the Great of Prussia wanted his people off coffee. In the 1780s Prussia made roasting a state monopoly and hired about 400 war veterans to sniff out illegal roasting. The bans faded after his death in 1786.

Coffee won. Kaffee und Kuchen, coffee and cake, is a mid-afternoon ritual, with bigger sessions at weekends.

The ritual

Coffee and cake · Kaffee und Kuchen

How it's made. Coffee served with cakes such as Bienenstich, Black Forest cake or Frankfurter Kranz.1

How it's served. Mid-afternoon, around 3 to 4 p.m., with family, friends or coworkers; weekends bring larger spreads.

Lost arts

What time is taking away

Lost

Prussian coffee sniffers

About 400 disabled veterans of the Seven Years' War patrolled for the smell of illegal roasting, from 1781 until the state monopoly ended in 1787.4,6

Field notes

What the record says

  • Melitta Bentz made her first filter from blotting paper torn from her son's notebook, placed in a brass pot with a perforated top.2,3
  • In June 1908 the Imperial Patent Office in Berlin granted Bentz a patent for her paper filter, and she founded the company 'M. Bentz' that year.2,3
  • Bentz sold 1,200 filters at the Leipzig trade fair in 1909, and the company moved from Dresden to Minden in 1929.2,3
  • A decree dated 13 September 1777, quoted in Ukers's 1922 'All About Coffee', has Frederick complain about his subjects' coffee drinking; its authenticity cannot be confirmed.4,5
  • In 1781 Prussia made coffee roasting a state monopoly, with nobles, clergy and other privileged people exempt.6
  • About 400 war invalids, nicknamed Kaffeeriecher or 'coffee sniffers', searched for illegal roasting; the monopoly and their role ended in 1787.4,6
  • In 1766 the Landgrave of Hesse-Kassel outlawed coffee and later sent officials to search homes.6
  • Hamburg's first coffeehouse opened in 1677 and Berlin's first public coffeehouse in 1721.7
  • Kaffee und Kuchen typically takes place between 3 and 4 p.m., and coffee became widely affordable in Germany by the 19th century.1
What we couldn't confirm

The famous 'my people must drink beer' wording comes from a 19th-century retelling and is left out. Sources differ on the patent: June 1908 grant versus July 1908 publication. The 73-pfennig start-up capital story was not in any opened source and was left out. Kaffee und Kuchen's origin date is not well documented.